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Major
02-12-2011, 03:55 PM
Having troubles with your automobile and its distracting you from your PL playin...well you might be in luck. I am an auto techincian and am willing to help with any problems or questions that you may have. Please right your question in this forum rather than PM.
I know random but I like to help :)

EDIT: If anyone else would like to add anything please just let us know!

Physiologic
02-12-2011, 04:12 PM
I replaced my IAC valve on my Acura RSX recently and stripped my first bolt ever, haha. Any idea how to take this bolt out? Bolt is easy to reach with a small 6" socket wrench but hard to reach with hands.

Major
02-12-2011, 04:16 PM
1st. Did u strip the head of the bolt or the threads?
2nd. Does the Idle air Control (IAC) bolt into aluminum or cast iron?

Physiologic
02-12-2011, 04:18 PM
I stripped the head of the bolt, and it bolts into cast iron. I've heard of some drill that can be used to take it out but I'm not willing to fork over a ton of money for it.

Major
02-12-2011, 04:24 PM
Well that really sucks lol....I suggest that you spray that bolt up with penetrating fluid or some kinda or rust loosener and leave for like a 1 hour to help ease the process....first id try gettin a smaller socket (6 POINT or more stripping will happen) and hammering it onto the stripped head (dont hit hard enough were stuff will break lol). If that does not work really all u can do is take all the stuff around it off so u can get at it with some vise grips and if worse comes to worse weld a nut on the top of it and thread it out....hope this helps a bit.

EDIT: O and heat will help if u can get like a propane torch or somethin.

EDIT: sorry just seen the last of ur post there....yes u can drill it out but its time consuming for sure and will cost u a bit if u go to a shop

Physiologic
02-12-2011, 04:49 PM
My friend said the same thing..."that really sucks" :(

Anyway I do have penetrating non-corrosive spray that I can use, tried it a week ago but didn't really leave it on too long. I'll try it again and see what happens and let you know, thanks!

Major
02-12-2011, 04:51 PM
Ya no prob...just dont use a wrench on it use a socket and ratchet (grips better) Good luck man!

Physiologic
02-12-2011, 07:37 PM
I just realized you're on my friend list since last night LOL.

Another question (sorry for all these q's), I've been running a CEL this past month and I used my own code checker and it threw an "O2 sensor" code. What the heck does this mean - do I have to clean the O2 sensor? Replace it? Is it even the O2 sensor itself or is the problem more uphill or downhill?

I definitely don't want to bring this down to the dealership because they'll ask me to pay AGAIN for a diagnostic code that I already know, and the cost of labor.

edit: As for the car itself with the CEL, it runs perfectly fine, not sure if gas mileage is altered or whatnot.

Bigsleazy
02-13-2011, 01:25 AM
If you mean the o2 sensor in your cat than it's not a big deal. Mine actually went out a couple months ago, took 10 minutes to change out, around $50 for the part (I have a gti so parts are usually more expensive, you can get a cheap one for your rsx or pull one from a junked rsx). If you want too you could run forever without it, I would fix it just so you cel light goes off.

Physiologic
02-13-2011, 01:28 AM
If you mean the o2 sensor in your cat than it's not a big deal. Mine actually went out a couple months ago, took 10 minutes to change out, around $50 for the part (I have a gti so parts are usually more expensive, you can get a cheap one for your rsx or pull one from a junked rsx). If you want too you could run forever without it, I would fix it just so you cel light goes off.

So it has to be replaced right? I heard that junk may build up and it only requires a simple clean up but is replacing the part altogether a better solution?

Bigsleazy
02-13-2011, 01:33 AM
Yes. Considering it's an electrical sensor I doubt it is just dirty. And if there's one thing I've learned about cars it's that fixing old parts usually causes more problems in the long run.

Also, are you stock on your rsx?

Physiologic
02-13-2011, 01:37 AM
Yep everything's OEM. Ah I suppose I'll shell out the bucks for the new sensor. It's annoying seeing the CEL go on one week and go off the next week, and on again.

Bigsleazy
02-13-2011, 01:44 AM
I just worry that if I leave the o2 cel on than if another, important cel goes on I won't notice. Check other Acura and Honda models that have the same sensor, you can easily pull one from a junkyard for less than $10 and install it yourself.

Physiologic
02-13-2011, 01:59 AM
I just worry that if I leave the o2 cel on than if another, important cel goes on I won't notice. Check other Acura and Honda models that have the same sensor, you can easily pull one from a junkyard for less than $10 and install it yourself.

I pull the code w/ my code checker every time it turns on again, it's just the o2 all the time...but yeah I'll prob call up some junkyards around here and see what they've got.

Major
02-13-2011, 10:26 AM
Wooooo woo k don't just go and buy an O2 sensor. An O2 sensor 'senses' the amount of oxygen in the exhaust and the oxygen outside of the exhaust and that signal goes to your computer and tells it if its running lean or rich. So the computer will then add more fuel/air that you need to run 'normal'. So 1st when was the last time you did a tune up on it?

EDIT: An O2 sensor is a serviceable part and it would def not hurt to replace it but buy a NEW one......trust me!

Physiologic
02-13-2011, 08:54 PM
I try to do everything mainly myself regarding tune-ups, when I was revving high RPMs at idle, I figured it was the IAC valve and replaced that with a new one (everything went well sans stripped bolt). The O2 sensor's still OEM from years back and was never touched at all.

Next question, how do you differentiate between O2 sensors, I see some here for $62 and some high as $200...

Major
02-13-2011, 09:15 PM
Well usually there are two 02 sensors, a post cat. and pre cat ( one before the catalytic converter and one after ) so you have to first of all make sure you only have one. I suggest buying like a Haynes manual ( they are awesome and have great info for almost every make and model ). I'm not sure but you probably only have one.....but before we get to the 02 sensor you need to know there are a lot of reasons why you will get an 02 sensor code to come on. Usually if it comes on it's doing it's job and telling you a problem has occured ( keep in mind it def could still be 02 sensor ). For instance a plugged fuel filter not sending enough fuel through the system will make the engine run lean and set an 02 code....and so on lol.....so do everything when it comes to serviceable parts that are inexpensive. Like air, fuel, PCV filters, spark plugs and ignition components depending on ignition set up. I hope this helps you understand a little more of what you need to do.....basically try to do the 02 sensor last and go NGK if you do( represent haha )

Physiologic
02-13-2011, 09:30 PM
Yeah Ive got my trust service manual on me :) I cleaned up my fuel injectors like half a year ago and replaced my fuel filter at that time as well so I don't think that's the issue...I'll prob take a look at my PCV valve now that you mention it. Car starts up fine easily w/o misfires so unsure if my spark plugs have anything to do with that (didn't service these myself, I had them replaced at a dealership like 1 year ago?).

Major
02-13-2011, 09:40 PM
Well it wouldnt hurt pullin the plugs out and takin a look at them. The slightest little piece of carbon on one of them will set an 02 code. So just give everything a look over, if it looks old, get a new one, its your vehicle and it def will not hurt. Well except your wallet lol. It's not bad if your replacing everything yourself, and when your buyin parts your getting what your paying for. Try to get parts with warranty and name brand....just a suggestion.

P.S. When pulling the plugs out make sure the engine is cold!

Wrap
02-13-2011, 10:12 PM
To get the bolt loose you can do it pretty easy with a hammer and screwdriver (not Phillips).

Take the screwdriver, place it on the top middle edge of bolt, tap with hammer to make a indentation in the bolt, then lean the screwdriver to the right while keeping it in the crease you made, then lean the screwdriver so that the tip of screwdriver is pointing to the left (you want it to the left so it when you tap bolt moves to the left and loosens and not to right which would tighten it) then tap the screwdriver handle with the hammer and it should start to loosen providing it's not extremely tight in there. (kind of hard to explain I guess, but once you have the hammer and screwdriver in hand looking at the bolt you should be able to figure this out)

As for the oxygen censor, it is very common for those needing to be replaced. The most one going out will do is make you un-able to pass a Smog. You can still run the car and it'll run just fine without it, until you need to smog =p

they are very cheap for a new one so I would recommend buying a new one. Junk yard can be good for some items but something like an o2 censor I would suggest getting new.

You can also try cleaning your o2 censors, and yes I have found that to work sometimes. I would only try bothering to clean it first if you could do it yourself..no point in paying a mechanic for something like that

Diodge
02-13-2011, 10:26 PM
These are 2 things I use. The welding can bring to much heat to some parts.

for bolt - Craftsman Bolt-Out 6 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set
or if you can get to it easy use-Craftsman Screw-Out™ (you have to get the size u need)

Physiologic
02-13-2011, 10:35 PM
I'll try all of this tomorrow, if I have no good results I'll end up looking for Diodge's suggestions online...thanks guys!

Major
02-13-2011, 11:34 PM
Ya craftsman is good but snap on better :)